Big Trees, Fern Canyon and Yosemite Snow

November 2nd- November 5th

Orick, California 

Redwood National Forest and State Park

A herd of elk welcomed us through the entrance of “Elk Country,” the campground we’d be staying in while we visited the Redwood Forest. All the traffic was stopped in front of our entrance because the elk were everywhere, grazing in the grass. It seemed surreal, as if we were in a movie or something. The campground was by far the most strict about their dog on leash policy, which is understandable knowing that Berk almost jumped out of the truck when we first saw the elk. Mike quickly befriended our camper neighbor, Rick who talked his ear off for the next two hours about photography and nearby hiking destinations. It’s so comical to me how middle aged men always want to talk to Mike. They immediately want to be friends, which is humorous to me every time. The showers there were hot, but required quarters which meant I was cut off while I still had shampoo in my hair and didn’t have enough money to wash it out. The glorious reality of living “On the road.”  

The next morning, we headed North to do some exploring. After crushing a couple peanut butter, banana sandwiches following our warm up hike at Lady Bird Johnson trail, we made the trek into Fern Canyon. We were stoked that we didn’t have to pay the $8.00 fee to enter, because we have the National Parks pass. We would definitely recommend getting the pass to anyone who plans to visit two or more National Parks in a given year. It cost us $80.00 up front, but by now it has already paid for itself. Fern Canyon was stunning. A scene from Jurassic Park 2 was filmed there, which made it even cooler. We trudged through the creek, acting as if the logs were balance beams, to avoid soaking our boots. 

The canyon was covered in Ferns from the water all the way to the tree line and it was mesmerizing the whole way up to the trailhead. We educated ourselves on the Ferns and found there were three main types within the canyon walls, which included: Five-Finger Ferns, Delicate Lady Ferns and Dark Green Sword Ferns. We crossed a small creek and began our four-mile hike up the Friendship Ridge Trail, where we walked amongst our fern cousins, tucked in between dozens of giant Redwoods. We ended our hike at Gold Bluffs Beach, which was the most pristine, clean, private stretch of beach I’ve ever seen. Due to the fact that it was part of the Redwood National Park, it felt almost entirely untouched. I think being on top of a mountain and having your toes in the sand minutes later makes this area unique. There’s really nothing else like it.

To celebrate my first full day in California and curb our hunger, we treated ourselves to dinner in Trinidad. A foggy, little beach town only 12 miles South of Orick. Our waitress, Kim was from Rome, New York.  Mike and I both had fish and chips and it was so good. Kim pressured us into their homemade blackberry cobbler and beers from Humboldt Brewery for dessert. We certainly indulged and our food baby’s were present to show for it. 

Berk and I looked for elk around the campground in the morning, while Michael enjoyed his beauty sleep. Day two in the Redwood Forest brought us to Prairie Creek. The Redwood trees made those on the previous day’s trail seem significantly smaller in size. They’re all so resilient. Many of them charred almost completely on their hollowed out insides, they still stand so tall and strong. We did about a four-mile hike at Lost Man Creek and the Prairie Creek Trail, which was one that we’d definitely recommend. Along the trail you’re surrounded by massive Redwoods, small creeks, an array of ferns and lush bushes. At the halfway point of Cathedral Trees Trail, we saw “The Big Tree” which had its very own plaque. The tree stood at a whopping 286 feet tall, 23.7 feet across and 74.5 feet around and it was estimated to be 1,500 years old. 

When we arrived back at Elk Country, we were greeted by Bob and Linda, our new neighbors, who were in their late-sixties and celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary. Bob and Mike instantly hit it off and were chatting it up in no time. We took Berk across the street to run the beach and play in the waves. He loves the beach, it’s adorable. We probably saw a dozen elk on the way back and Michael was able to get some awesome pictures up close, before our departure the next day.

Our drive from the Redwood Forest to Redwood City was about six hours. Most of the gas stations and small roadside shops advertised their “Cookies and Brownies”, which seemed odd at first until we realized they were talking about edibles. Most of the drive we were surrounded by hills, wineries and drivers who didn’t use their blinkers. The temperature was 88 degrees on our drive and continued to climb. It sure did make the 1 degree morning in Utah and 4 degrees in South Dakota feel more distant. Finally, warmth. 

Due to the fact that it was twenty-four hours post election and we were still waiting on counts from Pennsylvania and Nevada, so  we listened to live updates from NPR. We also listened to Brene Brown’s interview with Joe Biden about the meaning of courage and empathy. Brene Brown’s podcast “Unlocking us” is definitely worth listening to. On the other hand, Mike loves the podcast “Meateater,” which is hosted by Steve Rinella. He focuses on interviewing other folks in the outdoor industry. Hunters, country singers, etc. We sure cover a broad range of subjects in our podcast selections. We’ve gone from murder mysteries, to understanding emotions to hunting advice, but they keep us driving and keep us entertained all the same.

My anxiety inflicted by Michael’s driving has improved tremendously. I know this because when I was writing this paragraph we were on a four lane highway in California, listening to Miranda Lambert and having a relaxed conversation. There’s no invisible break or squeezing of my seatbelt or sweatshirt blindfold over my eyes. That’s major progress if you ask me. Apart from his occasional tailgating, Mike’s honestly a really great driver. I just have issues. I also can’t talk much, because we made it to California and I haven’t driven once. Mike likes to drive and I need time to write, so it kind of works out well. 

November 5th- November 7th  

Redwood City, California

Shortly after crossing the Golden Gate we made it to Redwood City, where we planned to stay for two nights and meet up with Mike’s cousin Rob. After we arrived, we spent the next two + hours trying to figure out where to park the camper. It was a miracle in itself that we made it through San Francisco and across the Golden Gate with the Dutchmen still attached. The lanes were tiny, the traffic was overwhelming and still nobody was using their blinkers. Rob checked with his friend who owned the Lucky California, grocery store near his house and was told that we’d likely be okay leaving the Dutchmen there overnight. Rob gracefully invited us into his apartment, so we detached from the Dutchmen, went on a night bike ride and then settled in for the night. Berkley became instant friends with Rob’s 13 year old dog Haley, mainly because he wanted to eat her food. 

After enjoying our coffee and coffee cake we decided we’d spend the day exploring San Francisco. We biked two miles to the train station and ordered breakfast sandwiches to fuel up before our train arrived. It was disappointingly around 55 degrees, which seemed unusually cold for the area, but Mike and I weren’t surprised, given the unpopular weather seemed to be following us. We hopped on the bike train and hopped off forty-five minutes later in San Fran. Over the span of the day and into the evening we would bike twenty-one miles. We biked along the bay, passing fisherman’s wharf, the colorful shops along the piers and eventually made it to the Golden Gate Bridge. I admired the pastel rainbow of houses along the way that had the most unique architectural style and had to be selling for anywhere between three and five million. I also admired the bike paths, everywhere and the fact that the city was so bike friendly. Mike and I both agreed that the presence of the Golden Gate surpassed our expectations. It was massive and stunning to stare at. We rode to the top and then followed a path that overlooked the bridge, the mountains alongside it and the Pacific Ocean below it. It was incredible. At this point I was sore, like really sore. The bike shorts weren’t helping apparently, but I didn’t even care because the views were so worth it. We biked up and down, back and forth through dirt and paved trails before we reached the city and the high rise building within it. We stopped to eat at a Thai Noodle House. Our food tasted phenomenal, given that it was 4pm and we hadn’t really had lunch yet. 

Before heading back toward the train, we made a very important detour to 1709 Broderick street, to see the Full House house. Yes, there was no way I could go to San Francisco, bike 20 miles around it and not stop to see if Kimmy Gibbler was around. I couldn’t wait to send my sisters a picture. I felt like all my childhood dreams came true as I stood in front of it, telling Mike and Rob which window I thought was part of DJ and Stephanie’s room. The steps leading to the front door were gated off and the houses on either side were armed with security cameras, given the high traffic of Full House fans on that street. Oh and because the house is currently on the market for five and a half million dollars. We biked for another hour, got Starbucks and caught the evening train back into Redwood City. Mike and his cousin shared memories from about fifteen years ago, when Michael was thirteen and Rob would come visit him in Binghamton, which was super sweet to witness. We left Redwood City in the morning after enjoying good conversation and hot coffee. 

November 7th- November 10th

Yosemite National Park, California

Just one day before we arrived, Emily Harrington was the first female and fourth human to ever climb to the top of El Capitan in a single day. The story was picked up by USA Today and all sorts of news outlets. El Cap was a part of Yosemite that Mike and I couldn’t wait to see. If you have not yet watched “The Dawn Wall” on Netflix, take time to do so and then you’ll understand.

We stayed at Yosemite Lakes RV Resort, which was located about ten miles outside of the park. We’ve found it to be difficult to secure a reservation in any National Park at this time of year, given the limited space and lack of employees. Yosemite lakes was a great place to stay and our neighbors were so friendly. The first morning we unexpectedly woke up to a winter wonderland, which was much more exciting when we stepped outside to learn the kids next door had never seen snow. They walked along the steps of their picnic table, kicking the snow off while catching it in their hands as it fell from the sky. Their parents told us to knock if we needed anything and even gave us their leftover firewood before they headed home. 

On day one we headed to Yosemite Valley to hike the Mist Trail, where we ascended over 900 feet in elevation over the course of three and a half miles. It was icy and when we reached the steps near the top, we realized we were in the midst of a full on blizzard. Most of the other hikers had turned around at this point, so we were proud of the fact that we’d made it to Vernal Falls. The falls were barely flowing, but the views were still pretty sweet. We regretted not bringing our poles, given the fact that we were basically skiing through snow covered ice on the way back down. 

As we entered the park we were greeted with warnings about the snow covered roads leading to Yosemite Valley. At this point we learned that it is California state law to carry chains in your vehicle even if you have four wheel drive and proper tires. We didn’t have chains so we fibbed our way past the ticket booth (not recommended) and was stopped by a park ranger to ensure we were properly equipped to drive on the snow covered roads. Being from New York, the snow that we were about to drive through was quite comical compared to back home. The officer asked if we had chains and we honestly answered “no, but we have 4-wheel drive.” He hemmed and hawed to himself and eventually decided he was going to let us in, under one circumstance that he pronounced “If you guys get stuck up there tonight, I’m not coming to get you out.” Mike laughed in agreement knowing that we would have no issues. Not the best way to make friends with your visitors… but we headed up the road unphased.

Day two in the park was a bit warmer than the first. Most of the snow was still around, but was steadily dripping off of the loaded branches in the lower elevations. We hiked the Mirror Lake trail which led us to the most amazing view of Tenaya Canyon. We were engulfed in a 360 degree panoramic view of Half Done and it’s amazing granite counterparts. We explored the views along the Yosemite road system and caught a couple incredible sunsets. 

November 10th-11th

Sequoia National Park, California

Sequoia was not what we expected at all. We didn’t realize how steep the terrain would be in order to reach the gems of the park. We knew there would be giant trees, but we were imagining a landscape similar to that of the Redwood Forest, not the mountains of Wyoming. After being warned again about the fact that we must have chains and that it was a California State law to carry them with you into the park (shocker I know), we proceeded through the entrance, past the 6 mile point the entrance employee told us we could go to without chains and winded another 15 miles up to the giant forest through sharp switchbacks. After getting into Yosemite chainless and realizing we only had a few hours until sundown, we decided we would take the chance without chains as the weather was in the mid to upper 40s, despite the law and ice we’d eventually come across. It was mid-50’s at our campsite, so snow in the park sounded unlikely. But sure enough, once we crossed through the 5000’ elevation mark we met a small amount of snow covered roads leading to the famed Sequoias. 

Once we parked, we took a short hike to the largest tree on Earth, the “General Sherman.” It’s hard to put into words how small these trees make you feel. We kept envisioning ourselves walking through a movie set, as the trees were so impressively large. Mike kept mentioning how difficult it was to show the size of them in a photograph. There were many of these beautiful red trees, but the General Sherman tree stands at a towering 275’ with a diameter of over 36’at its base. This was well worth our windy drive up into the park. Walking around these giants will leave you with a neck ache, but it’s one that is welcomed after taking in their towering beauty.  

Our neighbors in the Sequoia campground were full time RV’ers and had been living the RV life full time for about five months. The mom began homeschooling her kids and they traveled to wherever her husband was stationed, as he serves in the Marines. It’s funny, most people we meet tell us how much they wish they were doing what we were doing. They ALWAYS say, they wish they traveled before kids and so on and so forth. It’s quite humorous though because Mike and I were admiring their 50 foot Montana fifth wheel and their adorable family. You could probably have fit two of our campers inside theirs. It’s all about perspective I guess.